There is a backstory to this particular bread making excursion.
When I was a little girl I devoured every and any book that had a horse on the cover — books about horses, people who owned horses, horse anything! I became an utter and complete fan of the My Friend Flicka books by Mary O’Hara. (Please don’t confuse these books with the movie that came out a few years ago by the same name. Not even.)
These books (that I re-read quite often even as an adult) were so well-written, so deeply, most hearfully written, as to take me away from my small town in Massachusetts and transport me to a wind-swept Wyoming ranch where a family lived and bred horses. I felt I knew the family, their ranch, the ranch hands and the animals, and what it would be like to live on the frozen plains of Wyoming. To get my mail at the Tie Siding station, to watch the trains haul up the continental divide, to throw a checked oil-cloth over the kitchen table every morning and sweep clean a painted apple-green floor after breakfast.
Imagine my own sense of deja-vu when I, a girl in my twenties, found myself living in that exact same spot I had read so much about as a young girl — first Laramie and then Cheyenne, driving by the Tie Siding station, and seeing where that train chugged up the fierce divide. To see rolling and undulating hills, any one of which could be the fabled “Saddleback Mountain” so often quoted in those beloved books.
Mary O’Hara talked of the mother character, Nell, in her books as a revered figure, the essense of motherhood. A woman who lived a harsh life on a Wyoming horse ranch, but did not let that deter her from her love of music, her gracefullness, her quiet athleticism. Nell, in these books was really Mary herself — and in one of the episodes, I don’t remember if it was Flicka, or Thunderhead, or Green Grass of Wyoming, she talks of a process of making bread. Of an evening of “setting the sponge for tomorrow’s baking.”
Later I found a loosely written autobiography of Mary O’Hara, in reality Mary Sture-Vase. who actually lived and walked and breathed on the Remount Ranch, located off the Lincoln Highway between Laramie and Cheyenne in the 1930s. Called Wyoming Summer it details the struggles of her husband and herself on this very ranch, in the house built of pink granite. In this book she goes into more detail about her special bread.
She speaks of this bread with reverence, of how she has searched for a recipe that will give her a hearty bread, with a substance– almost like that of cheese. She finally finds a recipe purported to be a favorite of Teddy Roosevelt and she sets about making this bread. She talks of how, in setting the overnight sponge, that her indicator of success will be a distinct and unpleasant odor, like that of old socks, that will permeate the entire kitchen and cause her to fly out of bed with anticipation and fling open the windows to rid her kitchen of a smell that indicates success, but which she can hardly stand. The ingredients? Cornmeal, “new milk” and salt. And that was the end of the information Mary gave in her books.
I was intrigued.
I set to my trusty friend google to find what this bread could possibly be. I stumbled upon two recipes. One here and one here. This had to be it.
Luckily, I have access to new milk. I found non-germinated corn meal. I got out my yogurt maker. I was ready. If you read through the recipes you will see that you are making your own starter using bacteria from the air. I like this! A commodity just laying around my kitchen in the AIR! Something no one is marketing to me and I am not having to purchase. Food from air. Wow.

So here goes:
Milk, cornmeal, sugar and salt. Heat the milk to scalding, cool and place with the rest of these ingredients into a yogurt maker that will maintain an even 100 or so temp. I let it ferment for 24 hours. I opened the top with great anticipation laced with trepidation. Immediately my nose was assaulted. Old socks! Stinky Cheese! Toe Jam! It worked! It bubbled! It had come alive!

Next step, make the sponge from the starter. Whisk together butter, sugar, flour and the starter. This also needs to maintain at an even 100-120 degrees. Hmmmm, what to do? Ah ha! Just what the doctor ordered. The thermowell in the Chambers! Sweet!

Cover and leave for 3 hours. It will grow and bubble and foam and become a living thing!
Next, add baking soda dissolved in water and watch it go even more bonkers. It might even start to talk and walk around your kitchen.

Mix the sponge with the rest of the flour and knead for 10 minutes. I cheat and do 5 minutes in the Kitchenaid. Divide into three loaves and set to rise for 5 hours. Yep 5 hours.

Now, let’s pause here to talk a little about bread and South Dakota. It is dry here. Bread has a really hard time here. I have found that the best way to get bread to rise is to create a warm, moist environment. Before the Chambers this was tough. Now what I do is place the bread in a pan of water, put on top of the Chambers and cover with a towel. Perfect proofing box. Your bread will rise nicely.
Bake for about 30 minutes in a moderate oven. I know this seems time consuming, but in reality it is not. Your total hands-on time is minimal. It takes time for the starter and sponge to grow and the bread to rise, but all you have to do it put it there and let it do its thing. And you will end up with this. The richest, most flavorful sour-dough-like cheesy bread you will ever eat. It tastes like nothing you have tried. It is wonderful! Delicious! And something you actually made out of thin air!
